12th Annual National Archives Workshop

Have a look at the links below for the agenda for the 12th Annual NAW this weekend in Niagara Falls, NY. Check back sometime in the next week or so for more information.

FINAL Agenda Area 83 Archives Workshop

The final agenda for the Archives Workshop is posted below. We are really excited to be able to have two archives experts join us on this day. Greg Hill, non-alcoholic, a conservationist with the Conservation Institute of Canada (CIC), is going to share with us his expertise on the preservation of paper. Carolynn Bart-Riedstra, also a non-alcoholic and the Archives Advisor for the Archives Association of Canada (AAO), is coming up from Stratford to speak with us about the recording of our collections. We are very fortunate to have the support of the Archives Association of Ontario in our endeavours; the support is available, as a public service, to archivists and archives collections in Ontario. Anyone not familiar with the many services available to us via this organization might want to check out their website at http://aao.fis.utoronto.ca/

Also on this day we have the the Archivist for Area 83, Máire O'B. going over some of the recent discussions around oral histories. On the General Service Conference 2008 Archives agenda item there are issues of copyright, confidentiality, anonymity and so on. Some of this will be reviewed along with other aspects of conducting oral histories.

We had hoped to be able to tour the Canadian War Museum Archives but these are closed on Saturday and what with union issues and so on it was not possible. We are going to be treated to a tour of the City of Ottawa's Archives in the afternoon after we are all tuckered out from the incredible set of information we received throughout the day and after we have a look around the Ottawa AA's Archives collection.

I almost forget about the pot luck lunch! Ottawa Archives committee is hosting us at the Bronson Centre, 211 Bronson Ave, and will be helping to arrange the hospitality that we AAs are so well known for.

There are a few modestly priced hotels in the area. If you need any help with any of your arrangements or have any questions about the Workshop in general please contact the Archivist or the Archives Chair (details in the side bar).

FINAL Agenda for 3rd Annual Area 83 Archives Workshop

3rd Annual Archives Workshop
Eastern Ontario Area 83 International
Bronson Centre
211 Bronson Avenue, Ottawa

April 5, 2008

9:00 Opening remarks

9:10 Oral Histories – Guidelines, challenges, solutions - Máire O’B., Archivist Area 83

10:15 Break

10:30 Preservation & Conservation of Paper - Greg Hill, Conservation Institute of Canada

11:45 Lunch - Potluck

12:30 Recording the Collection - Carolynn Bart-Riedstra, Archives Advisor, Archives Association of Ontario (AAO)

1:30 Question & Answer Period

2:00 Tour - Ottawa AA Archives

3:00 Tour - City of Ottawa Archives (111 Sussex Drive)

3rd Annual
Area 83
Archives Workshop


Saturday April 5, 2008
9:00 – 4:00

Bronson Centre
211 Bronson Avenue
Ottawa

Panels, Pot luck lunch, War Museum Archives tour

For more information contact: archivist_area83@sympatico.ca

REPAIRING PAPER ARTIFACTS

REPAIRING PAPER ARTIFACTS
by Sherelyn Ogden
Preservation Consultant and Conservator
St. Paul, MN

The generally accepted method of repairing torn paper or reinforcing weak areas in a sheet uses strips of strong, almost transparent, acid-free paper, adhered with a strong, colorless water-based adhesive that is acid-free and easily reversed. The following materials are recommended for repair of documents, book pages, and other paper objects.

The preferred repair papers are made in Japan from kozo fibers. These papers (often erroneously called rice papers) exist in different weights with names such as Sekishu, Tengujo, Kizukishi, and Usumino. The fiber content of Japanese papers differs, with some papers containing fibers that are not of conservation quality. To be safe, only papers that contain 100 kozo, mitsumata, or gampi fibers, or a combination of these, should be used. These Japanese papers are ideal for repairs because they do not discolor or become brittle over time, they have long, strong, flexible fibers, which produce a lasting repair. The lighter-weight papers are especially well suited to the repair of documents since they are translucent and unobtrusive and will not obscure the text of a document. Most conservators use strips of paper with torn rather man cut edges because a frayed edge makes a less visible, softer repair.

ADHESIVES
Use of a proper adhesive is essential. Any adhesive used for mending paper objects must have the following properties:
-Sufficient strength: it should hold the object for an indefinite length of time.
-No tendency to discolor: it should not yellow, darken, or stain.
-Reversibility: it should allow the repair paper to be easily removed with minimal effort and no damage to the object, even after many years.
-Few commercially available adhesives meet all these criteria. Commercial library and wallpaper pastes may lose hold as they age and often contain harmful additives. Rubber cement and animal glues usually darken or stain. Several synthetic adhesives, such as white "glues," are very difficult if not impossible to remove once they have begun to age.
-Pressure-sensitive (self-adhering) tapes should be avoided. Most of the adhesives on these tapes cause staining over time and require toxic solvents and technical expertise for removal. In recent years pressure-sensitive tapes that are advertised as archival have been introduced. These are probably more stable than other similar tapes but because their aging properties are not yet known, their use should be avoided for objects of value. The adhesives on commercial gummed tapes, which require wetting, are less damaging, but most stain in time and these tapes also should be avoided for objects of value.
-Commercial products in general should be avoided even if they are reputed to be safe because commercial products are subject to alteration by the manufacturer. This year's non-staining tape may have an adhesive with a different formula next year.

Starch-Based Paste
For many years conservators have favored homemade starch-based pastes. These are made most often from either rice starch or wheat starch (not flour, but the starch that has been extracted from the flour). There are many recipes for these pastes. One recipe for wheat starch paste follows:
1. Place one part of wheat starch and four parts of distilled water in a saucepan or the top of a very clean double boiler.
2. Mix well and let stand at least 20 minutes.
3. If a double boiler is used, fill the bottom part with a small amount of water making sure that the upper section does not touch the water.
4. Place on medium high heat and cook, stirring constantly with a clean wire whisk.
5. When the paste begins to thicken (this may happen right away), reduce heat and continue stirring. Stir for about half an hour; then remove from the stove. The paste should be thick and translucent. As it cooks and thickens, it will become more difficult to stir. To aid in stirring, a wooden spoon may be substituted for the wire whisk, but the spoon should be one that has not been used for the preparation of food.
6. When cooked, the paste should be transferred to a clean container for storage. It should be allowed to cool before use. Prior to use the paste should be strained. A Japanese paste strainer works well for this.

Quick Wheat Paste
University Products, a supplier of conservation materials, has published a quick recipe for wheat starch pastel. The advantage of this recipe is that small quantities of paste can be easily prepared- If necessary strain the paste prior to use.
Place 1 tablespoon wheat starch in a microwave-safe container, add 5 tablespoons distilled water and place in microwave unit. Microwave on high setting 20 to 30 seconds. Remove paste and stir. Place back in unit and microwave another 20 to 30 seconds. Remove and stir again. Continue this process several times until the paste is stiff and translucent. If larger quantities are made in the microwave oven, increase the cooking time between stirrings. Paste should cool before use.

Diluting and Storing Paste
Different consistencies of paste are required, depending upon the particular mending task at hand. A consistency similar to heavy cream is adequate for most mending. Pastes should be diluted with distilled water to achieve the consistency required.
Starch paste should not be refrigerated; cover and store in a cool, dry place. It will keep for only a week or less. Some conservators recommend adding a preservative. The preservatives used, however, are toxic. It is preferable to make paste in small quantities when it is needed rather than add a preservative and store it for long periods. If paste discolors, grows mold, or develops a sour smell, discard it immediately. Discard it if dark flecks appear in the paste since they may indicate mold or bacterial growth.

Methyl Cellulose
Starch pastes require time to make and thus are not practical if they are to be used only occasionally. A simpler adhesive can be made from methyl cellulose, which comes in powdered form and is sold by viscosity (in general, the higher the viscosity the more stable the methyl cellulose). Mix one rounded tablespoon of methyl cellulose with 1/2 cup of distilled water. Let it stand for several hours before use. It will thicken on standing but can be thinned to me appropriate consistency with water. Methyl cellulose is not as strong as starch paste but should hold adequately if the document is not to be handled extensively or if it is to be encapsulated in polyester film. Methyl cellulose keeps well for several weeks and does not require a preservative.

MENDING PROCEDURES
Tearing Mending Strips
It is desirable for mends to have a soft edge, both to increase the strength of the bond and to prevent paper from breaking where it bends against the edge of the mend. To tear mending strips, draw parallel lines of clean water on the Japanese paper using a small, soft artist's brush, a ruling pen filled with water (instead of ink), or a small cotton swab. Tease the mending paper apart along the wet lines. Make the strips different widths to conform to different tears; 1/4", 1/2", and 3/4" will be most useful. If many mends are to be made, it is helpful to tear a supply of strips m advance.

Applying the Mending Strips
Using a flat piece of glass or plastic as a pasting surface, apply starch paste or methylcellulose to a strip of Japanese paper with a Hat brush (about 1/4" wide). Include the exposed fibers on &e edges of the strip. Then lift the strip with tweezers and place it over the tear. If the document is one sided, then mend on the reverse, with the pasted side against the document. Lighter-weight papers tend to pull apart when wet with paste. For this reason it is easiest to use strips not more than two inches long. For longer tears, several short strips may be used, placed end to end. It will take practice to manipulate the thin, wet repair strips. Once the mending strip is in place, lay a sheet of silicone release paper or non-woven polyester (Reemay, Hollytex) over the repair. Tap the repair lightly.

Drying the Mended Sheet
If possible, weight the repair while it dries. Weighting insures good adhesion and prevents cockling of the paper. Repairs may be weighted as follows: first place small pieces of release paper or non-woven polyester over and under the area to be dried. Sandwich these and the mend between pieces of blotter. Lay a piece of glass on top of the sandwich and put a weight (about one pound) on top of the glass. The weights may be small bags of lead shot or pieces of lead covered with cloth. One pound fishing weights from sporting good stores make excellent weights provided they have at least one flat side to prevent rolling. Repairs should be weighted for one hour or longer. A photographer's tacking iron, placed on a low to medium setting, can be used to speed up the drying process- The tacking iron should not be applied directly to the document. Place a piece of non-woven polyester between the iron and the document- Iron until dry (10 to 20 seconds) then weight for a few minutes to flatten.

Report on the 11th Annual National Archives Workshop

As I flew over the southern Midwest USA on Thursday, September 6 I really had no idea what to expect at the 11th Annual National Archives Workshop in Phoenix, Arizona. I had heard that it was the key site for archivists of Alcoholics Anonymous and that there was a lot of work done but I how was I to know how critical a gathering until it all began to unfold.

Receiving the weekend’s agenda I had a feeling of ease and comfort knowing that each day’s activities began with an AA meeting. First things first. Anyone, anywhere … and each morning of the 78 attendees from all over the United States about 30 of us gathered to share our experience, strength and hope.

The Workshop opened on Thursday evening with Vick Jo (Immediate past Delegate, Phoenix) getting us started with an evening of open sharing of “what’s on your mind?”
Participants – archivists, archives chairs and those interested in archives. The discussion ranged from photographs and anonymity; anonymity and the internet; access to GSO Archives; and what to do with oral histories. The information shared in these short two hours was rich and immediately applicable to our work in Area 83. You can read some of the consensus that emerged out of these discussions on the Area 83 Archivist’s blog.

On Friday the work began in earnest. We spent the whole day on preservation and conservation with workshops being led by Dave C., former archivist for Western Washington, Area 72. We spent the whole day at tables laden with conservation and preservation tools and material. We received instruction on how to receive material, catalogue, assess condition, repair, clean, de-acidify, preserve, encapsulate, sew Grapevines. There were 3 working tables with 2 other facilitators, Terry and Dennis ? and though there was not enough room for everyone to participate the rest of us circled round the tables and shared the resources. There was a lot of excitement about actually doing the preservation and conservation that has a tendency to be shrouded in mystery for those of new to the work. Our evening was well rounded by the sharing of 4 of Phoenix’s longtimers with an average of 45 years each.

Saturday was consumed with workshops conducted on What Are Archives? What to Keep/throw; Storage-Repositories; Long Time Collections; Disaster Recovery; Collections vs. Archives; and bid presentations for the 13th Annual Archives Workshop in 2009. The sharing on these will presented on the Area 83 Archivist’s blog over the next few months.

During a Saturday evening banquet we enjoyed fellowship and a great supper after which we listened to a presentation by Amy Filiatreau, GSO Archivist on GSO’s Archives with a real nice set of clips of Bill W., Dr. Bob, Nell Wing, Ebby T. and a few others. This will be the basis of her presentation at the 23rd GTA Archives Breakfast on November 4, 2007 at the Oasis Convention Centre.

Sunday is the business meeting of the NAW. Everyone registered becomes a voting member. We voted on the bid for the 2009 NAW which will be in Woodland Hills, California, just outside Los Angeles. Other items of business related to the composition of the NAW Steering Committee, guidelines around the NAW bids and other miscellaneous items.

STEPS IN CONSERVATION

1. Record acquisition
2. Assessment - what action is needed?
3. Remove staples, paper clips, tape, backings
4. Clean
5. Repair
6. Deacidify
7. Encapsulate
8. Select storage/display conditions

1. Record Acquisition
· documents, books, etc- should be logged in file system or computer database;
· Record any information that might later be helpful in accessing (e.g., title, author, etc.)
· Record condition in which item was received;
· Note any known history of items, including groups or events involved, and donor;


2. Assessment
· Examine the document for:
· Staples & paper clips;
· Tape and backings;
· Dirt and stains;
· Tears and folds;
· Yellowing and brittleness


3. Remove Staples & Backings
· Remove staples by bending up and clipping off ends; do not use office staple remover;
· Remove paper clips, replace with acid-free plastic clips;
· Remove paper or cardboard backings, if possible - they will often be acidic;
· Remove adhesive tape; if possible, residue comes off with toluene.


4. Document Cleaning
· Do not use common erasers;
· Surface dirt can be removed with document cleaning powder. Be careful not to remove pencil marks that might be wanted; Most stains cannot be removed without damaging the document.


5. Document Repair
· Do not use adhesive ( " Scotch " ) tape to repair tears in paper documents and books;
· Avoid using materials that require solvents for removal - solvents may attack inks;
· Archival quality repair tapes are available that are water reversible;
· Tissue repair gives nearly invisible results.


6. Most paper made in the last 80-100 years contains acids that will cause deterioration; acids cause paper to turn brown and brittle, so treat darkest documents & books first;
Indicator pens can show acidity in paper but will leave a small, permanent stain; if testing, use a small area first to be sure it will not be affected by treatment.

WeiTo
- Uses flammable solvents, may attack some inks;
- Clogs spray nozzles;
- Less expensive;
- Treatment may penetrate better.

Homemade recipes also available, but are unproven

7. Encapsulation
· Use only archival quality, acid-free materials;
· Seal seams with double-sided tape or use heat sealer;
· Leave small air gap in seal - do not seal around document;
· Use open top Mylar envelopes for multi-page documents such as newsletters.

8. Storage/Display Conditions
· Choose storage and display conditions appropriate to the age, condition and rarity of
the document or book.



Don't forget Security!!!